irish-leather

 

There are three new-to-me scents, which I am having trouble choosing between because they are so lovely.

The first is by the Paris based scent company, Memo and it’s called Irish Leather.  I met co-founder, Clara Molloy this morning chez Harvey Nichols and we had a lovely time nosing through its key notes and talking leather stories (did you know that leather gloves were once sold with scent, because the leather smelled so awful?  Thats why the original glove makers were prized as highly for their perfumes as their kid gloves, hence the 17th century term Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier.  It was the leather industry that gave rise to the perfumery industry – scent-centre Grasse was about leather first and perfumery followed.).

This is a new style leather scent in that it’s lighter and perkier.  It has an iris note (warm, elegant), mate (from the Japanese tea – velvety – which translates to soft, clean, earthy), a leather accord.  And fourth, pink pepper for a piquant kick.  Three hours later and on my skin it is like soft, warmed suede gloves – elegant with no sweetness.

As Clara and I chatted and she took me through her collection (from a leather trunk, go see it, it’s in Harvey Nicks) we came upon one called Moon Safari.   Interesting that its name has to change at Air’s request (it’s the name of a song by the French band for those who’re imagining elephants on the moon).   It will become Moon something else – the name escapes me.  Not quite so lyrical, but what’s inside is what counts.

The second is Lemon, from make-up supremo turned scent connoisseur, Mary Greenwell.  If you love Ô de Lancôme (which I do) then you will love this.  There is, like her first scent, Plum, something of the delicious, elegant, decadent late 70s early 80s about it.  It’s filled with bright lemons, a few flowers but nothing too overtly floral, and a dry down of oakmoss and patchouli.

Third in brief and back to Memo and Inle, named after the lake in Burma.  ’It is inspired by the mist as it rises from the lake,’ says Clara.  Inle has bergamot, mint, osmanthus and jasmine.  It is light, refreshing, pretty and delicate – kind of like gentle mist rising from a Far Eastern lake.

Healthy nail hit list: Dr Hauschka Neem Oil, Dior, Chanel, Deborah Lipmann, Margaret Dabbs cuticle cream

Healthy nail hit list: Dr Hauschka Neem Oil, Dior, Chanel, Deborah Lipmann, Margaret Dabbs cuticle cream

I’ve just been sitting on the tube and I couldn’t help but notice the woman’s nails as she sat (minding her own business) opposite.  They were all that’s wrong about the French Manicure.  The living embodiment of the death of the French.  Long, squared off at the end, probably acrylics (the super thick kind) – and with a strip of white as deep as the width of your pinkie nail.

All that was right with the French Manicure disappeared long long ago, its fate sealed by the TOWIE brigade where every beauty look has been ramped up to the highest decibel.   So it was with glee and relief that I read this month’s Vogue.  The style bible has set the record straight over where the French (in its truest chicest form) should sit.  The proper, old school French is and I quote: ‘A world away from Essex [...] delicate ovals, gently white-tipped to perfection, très clean and très sexy.’  And not a white tip in sight.

Fashion knows it, which is why for example of the 18 odd shows manicure supremo, Marian Newman manicured at the Fall 2013 shows, the majority were painted natural.  And which is why my chicest friends would NEVER apply more than a single, yes single coat of clear or palest pink (Revlon Pink Nude, the classic).  Two coats of sheer pink tend to look too done – too unnaturally perfect.   Occasionally, a white pencil run under the tip.  And at a push the finest, finest white tip – a sliver not a slice.

Right now, my nails are painted in Chanel’s base coat, which gives a natural, non glossy finish.  It looks great on its own: tidy, clean nails.  But on top I’m wearing Chanel’s Extreme Shine Nail Lacquer, which as Newman says gives an almost opalescent gleam without the opalescence.  Read: healthy, glossy, naturally chic nails.  Perfect for work.  Perfect for weekend.  And right on trend.

 

 

 

ArtBaselHongKongGRIMMDesireeDolronXteriorsII20012010

You’d be hard pushed to miss the Dutch influence behind this portrait of a young woman.  It’s by Desiree Dolron born ’67 in Haarlem in the Netherlands and working today in Amsterdam.  It’s making its way to Art Basle, Hong Kong, which begins later this month.  Hong Kong appears to be the pivot for today’s Far Eastern art boom and this portrait will stand out – Northern European aesthetics (cool, calm, fine) and the girl’s Asian beauty (cool, calm, fine) harmonise seamlessly.  And the fleck of worry on her forehead is touching.

On her skin there is I imagine little more than a touch of invisible powder, good light and a little post production.   How to get a little more flawlessness into your own skin?  I was at a skincare presentation this mornng – Sensai by Kanebo, which is Japanese (they’re ace at incredible, silk like textures that make your skin feel like silk, yes really).

Sensai Clinique Sisley emmahill.net

Several products stood out including a skin primer.  A subtle filling effect leaves the skin’s surface smoother, it also mattifies and helps foundation stay on longer.  It also has SPF15, a good thing.  You can buy it from August (I suggest putting it on your shopping list), so meantime, I recommend Sisley Instant Perfect.  Apply to forehead, nose and chin before foundation and after SPF moisturiser to give a smooth, matte finish and help make-up last.  I also love Clinique City Block Sheer SPF25, it’s oil free, helps absorb oil and holds make-up well.

Sensai Lift Up Base, £33.  Available August.

For more on Art Basle Hong Kong see this piece in NY Times.

 

Ete Papillon Look 2 Screenshot

Photographer Richard Burbridge © Chanel

On May 31st Chanel releases its summer make-up collection, L’Eté Papillon de Chanel in the UK.  Inspired, you said it, by butterfly wings.  There are waterproof mascaras in bright yellow, turquoise, electric blue and sea green.  There are twist up cream eye shadow pens in sea blues and greens, golden yellow and pink sand.  There are three nail polishes – the perfect coral, metallic blue and a green that shimmers like a butterfly wing.

How to wear them?

If youth is on your side, you’re ok with all of it applied with as much gusto as this if you like…  If everything Chanel is over budget then do the hi-lo thing, buy just one piece and then hit Top Shop (Barry M does a nice line in coloured liner).  Though I have never seen a yellow mascara as vibrant as this.

If you’re northward of 40 cherry pick.  Try a sweep of turquoise say, on your lashes and little more than that.   Add it to the outer half of your lashes over the top of black mascara for what they call in the business a colour accent.   Or play safe and stay with coral on your nails and toes (yes, matching nails and toes are de rigeur for summer), a slick of sheer coral or red lipstick (also in the collection) and one of the more muted cream shadows smudged over your lids with a lick of mascara.  But I say, be bold and go with the colour – for play, holiday or party.   You only live once and right now, full-on make-up has never been bigger.

To shop the collection online in the US now and to see more  see here.  For UK stockists call 020 7493 3836.  Available May 31.