Tag: Peter Philips

If you haven’t already caught the Twitter frenzy, set up your Chanel at Harrods search now.   Shrouded in secrecy until today, the Chanel pop up bonanza, which opened this morning got we Twitter-fanatical fashion and beauty hacks into a complete Twitter tizz.   Why, you ask sweetly?  Oh, why?

Today, for three weeks, Chanel has collaborated with Harrods on a temporary collection of Chanel paraphernalia: pop-up boutique, beauty bar, exhibition, Chanel make-up artists and manicurists (ready to paint your face and nails) and more, to let we mere mortals into the glittering world of Chanel.   The inspiration was Chanel designer, Karl Lagerfeld’s Autumn/Winter Ready-to-Wear collection, which at the time of the show, was considered – albeit to acclaim – somewhat gritty in its post-apocalyptic setting, and dour, slouchy, masculine, gothic, street-meets-high-fashion feel.  But has translated into a fabulous, deliriously-wantable, luxe collection with hints of 70s and early 80s glamour (see more pix here) – and if Harrods’ Brompton Road windows were anything to go by, doused with surely whimsical, other-worldly, fairytale touches.

And this other worldliness was what rang through the spectacle.  As I moved from the pop-up boutique at door 9 into the beauty area (a kindly assistant will direct you) it was Hansel & Gretel for grown-ups.  Sweet jars of lip glosses, lipsticks and nail polishes lined the walls. Decanters of over sized Chance and other scent bottles sat alongside.  In front, there was a bronze tiled beauty bar where you could have a make over by one of Chanel’s make-up artists – Kay Montano, Lisa Eldridge, and today, Mary Greenwell…  You could also have your nails painted by a star manicurist – today it was Britain’s talon superstar Sophy Robson – and tomorrow, it will be Marian Newman, who is another big name in fashionista nails.   I nipped into the Chanel-customised photo booth – you can too, and be snapped all made-up like a star, wind machine at the ready.  It was brilliant, you look really not bad at all.  Passport photo booth this isn’t – this is Snap Shot, Coco style.

I took a lift to the third floor and wandered through to something every budding fashion-fanatical teenager needs to see: Une Promenade – Coco In Wonderland – an exhibition showcasing the various elements or ‘codes’, which define Chanel. I wafted through a curtain of rippling pearls into an Italian-style garden setting complete with black, quilted watering cans, treasure filled cabinets and encircled with arches leading through to a number of ante-chambers.  I took one, which lead me into a blacked out room to watch how the classic, black quilt Chanel bag is made, through a patchwork of videoclips (Sam Taylor Wood – are you watching?).  Next I drifted into the playroom, where teddies and rag dolls modelled Lagerfeld designed outfits.  On and through into a pastiche of the Chanel couture atelier (see the photo above for an idea) draped with gowns, and with couture dresses displayed through glass frames on the walls (loved the wallpaper – grey and white and elegant: peacocks, birds and flowers).

A No5 room had a giant No5 bottle as its centrepiece, with footage of past No5 faces including Marilyn Monroe and Ali McGraw beamed into the glass.  A book lined study was a snapshot into Lagerfeld’s own, the walls decorated with photo-fit wallpaper of the bookshelves that line his own study.   Then: a Chanel tweed and boucle wool lined room, which turned these two, iconic Chanel fabrics into art pieces – tweed stretched as a canvas.  And lastly, a giant sized Chanel bag (comical in its size and cartoon-like vibe, like an iced cake) filled the final stop, just to remind us of the supremely iconic status of the world of Chanel.

Chanel’s World at Harrods runs for three weeks from today – Une Promenade opens tomorrow, September 6th 2011.

Peter Philips, Chanel’s thrilling make-up guru recently came up with an adorable animation idea, which you can see at the end of this post.  He says:  ’A few years ago I made these little robots, that were part of a headpiece I created for a tribal makeup shooting [...] that’s where the idea first came from.’  He adds:  ’I then had the chance to play with these characters and do an animation, that’s how my little robots came to life.’
BTW, if you double click on each image you’ll see how they’re constructed (I need my rather attractive new reading glasses to make them out).

And as for the animation, you can see it at Nowness, a hot little artsy, food-y, design-y, culture-y place to go.  Click:  Nowness.  Expand your screen, turn the music up and enjoy…

Pretty in Jade Rose by Gorunway.com

The print effect eye make-up at Chanel’s Fall 2010/11 show may be tricky to pull off in real life.  But underpinning the look (inspired by, ‘a paint, print texture that Karl used on some of the handbags and shoes for this show,’ says Chanel’s make-up guru, Peter Philips) are several failsafe, beauty tricks that work marvels off the catwalk.  They’re also central to Peter Philips’ Fall make-up collection.

First, blusher.   Applied to the cheek’s apple it lifts your complexion in seconds.  Chanel Joues Contraste Powder Blush in Rose Temptation is one of three, brilliant new hues and gives the kind of skin-kick you can see in this backstage shot.  It adds a pop of colour to all but the darkest skin tones and its rose scent, which is in all of the blushers, is just lovely.

Second, nude eyeliner.  Especially useful if you suffer from red eyes.  Apply to the inner rim to neutralise and give tired eyes a very subtle lift.   It’s a make-up artist trick, so no wonder Philips has introduced Le Crayon Khol in Clair.

Third, a good eyeshadow palette for smokey eyes.   I’ve yet to meet a woman who doesn’t want to know how to do good smoke.  Chanel’s new four-colour eye shadow, Les 4 Ombres in Enigma does it in spades.

A pale lipstick that flatters.  Perfect with the smoked, greys of the eye shadow: Rouge Coco in Chintz (a pale peach, see below) and Rose Dentelle (pinkish nude).  Available 13th August, call 020 7493 3836.

Friday 6 November 2009     Leave A Comment

Estée Lauder signs Tom Pecheux

Great that Lauder brings Tom Pecheux, one of the industry’s make-up superstars intothe fold as Creative Make-Up Director. Things haven’t been as exciting in lipstick terms, since Tom Ford’s collaboration with the brand – the result was consistent, sell-out collections of fabulously glamorous, make-up. It’s time for another shake-up. This is good news.

This is just one of a series of ongoing hirings within the make-up arena. The last most talked about was Peter Philips’ arrival at Chanel. He took over from Dominique Montcourtois and Heidi Morawetz who’d been at the helm for around 20 years. Next up, celebrity darling, Gucci Westman’s move from Lancôme to Revlon in Spring last year and, Aaron de Mey’s enlistment at Lancôme. Val Garland took over from Linda Cantello at YSL (Cantello incidentally, was assisted by Tom Pecheux some twenty/thirty years ago). Pat McGrath, behind the original Armani make-up line has now been at Max Factor for five years.

The make-up artist voice is stronger now than it ever was. (Funny to think that forty years ago there was no such thing – models did their own make-up.) This is why the cosmetics houses are lapping them up. They know their craft, they know what works and having worked with some of the most creative photographers in the world, have developed the kind of fine-tuned, eye that will help today’s cosmetic houses remain modern, forward thinking, exciting and new.

I for one can’t wait to see Pecheux’s first collection – Spring 2010. Bring it on.